Francesco Ippolito, 29/02/2020
N.B. This is not the report of a road trip actually made, this is a travel plan based on the information collected online with a specific focus, the critical analysis of the existing hotel offer and the search for potential locations to develop tourism projects totally sustainable in contrast with the majority of projects that do not take at all into account environmental conservation needs and which are putting at risk the integrity of the natural, cultural and social environment.
- Baja California Peninsula geography, a brief intro.
The Baja California Peninsula is a peninsula in Northwestern Mexico. It separates the Pacific Ocean from the Gulf of California. The peninsula extends 1,247 km (775 miles) from Mexicali, Baja California in the north to Cabo San Lucas, Baja California Sur in the south. It ranges from 40 km (25 miles) at its narrowest to 320 km (200 miles) at its widest point and has approximately 3,000 km (1,900 miles) of coastline and approximately 65 islands. The total area of the Baja California Peninsula is 143,390 km2 (55,360 sq miles), roughly the same area as the country of Nepal.
The peninsula is separated from mainland Mexico by the Gulf of California and the Colorado River that defines the northeast border with the State of Sonora and further up the US State of Arizona and California in the north.
The Baja California Peninsula became a Mexican territory in 1848.
The northern part is the state of Baja California. It is sometimes informally referred to as Baja California Norte, to distinguish it from both the Baja California Peninsula and the adjacent state Baja California Sur. The citizens of Baja California are named Bajacalifornianos. Mexicali is the capital.
The southern part, below 28° north, is the state of Baja California Sur. The citizens of Baja California Sur are named Sudcalifornianos. La Paz is its capital.
The Baja Peninsula is a scarcely populated area.
Baja Norte has a population of 3.648.100 in an area of 70.113 sq km, 52 inhabitants per sq km, most of them concentrated in the major urban areas of Mexicali, Tecate, Tijuana and Ensenada.
Baja Sur has a population of 839.700 in an area of 75.675 sq km, 11 inhabitants per sq km.
These statistics give the idea of the abundance of space and unspoiled nature available.
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- Baja California Peninsula Weather.
Baja California Peninsula is one of the warmest regions in Mexico with an average daily high temperature of around 30 degrees centigrade. Stretching 1,247 km (775 miles) from Mexicali in the north to Cabo San Lucas in the South, obviously, the two states of BC North and BC South show slightly different weather patterns.
Baja California North.
In the state of Baja California, which includes the northern part of the peninsula of the same name, the climate is generally arid subtropical, mild on the west coast, overlooking the Pacific ocean, where a cold current flows, and very hot in summer on the east coast, overlooking the Gulf of California (or Sea of Cortez).
The interior is crossed by a mountain range, which separates the two worlds, the mild oceanic one and the warm eastern one.
In the northern inland areas, it is cold in winter, and snowfalls and frosts are possible, while summer is hot even at altitudes of a few hundred meters.
The rainfall is not abundant and most of the rain falls from November to March, although in the interior, some rains also occur from July to September.
The Sonoran desert, which is characterized by an increase in rainfall in the second part of summer, a "little monsoon" from July to mid-October, is located just further east (in the state of Sonora) and further south, that is, in the central-southern part of the peninsula (which also includes the state of Baja California Sur).
From late June to October, and with a maximum in September, Baja California may be affected by the remnants of tropical depressions and cyclones that form in the Pacific off the southern coast of Mexico, and then head north, mainly affecting Baja California Sur.
In general, you can go to Baja California from November to April, since in some areas (the inland ones and the east coast) it is very hot in summer.
The western coast, which is a world apart, can be visited all year round, however, the best time to go to the beach is from July to October, when the sea is less cold (although in October there is the risk of hurricanes).
Baja California South.
The state of Baja California Sur encompasses the central and southern part of the Baja California peninsula. The climate is arid subtropical in most of the state, mild on the west coast, overlooking the Pacific ocean, where a cold current flows, and very hot in summer on the east coast, overlooking the Gulf of California (or Sea of Cortez).
In winter, when cold air masses arrive from the United States, it can get cold at night but during the day it generally remains mild.
From July to mid-October, there is an increase in rainfall, due to the "little monsoon" of North America, with more evident effects in the southernmost part, crossed by the Tropic of Cancer.
Within the little monsoon, from late June to October, and with a maximum in September, Baja California Sur (more than Baja California) may be affected by tropical depressions and cyclones that form in the Pacific off the southern coast of Mexico.
You can visit the central-northern part of Baja California Sur from November to April, and the southern part from mid-November to March, since it is the least hot period. During the day you can enjoy the sun, while in the evening you will need a sweater and a jacket (light for the southern part).
For a beach holiday, you may prefer May (when the sea is still a little cool) and the first half of November (when the sea is warmer).
The mountain peaks can be visited in April and May when it is not as cold as in winter.
Within the little monsoon, from late June to October, and with a maximum in September, Baja California Sur (more than Baja California) may be affected by tropical depressions and cyclones that form in the Pacific off the southern coast of Mexico.
You can visit the central-northern part of Baja California Sur from November to April, and the southern part from mid-November to March, since it is the least hot period. During the day you can enjoy the sun, while in the evening you will need a sweater and a jacket (light for the southern part).
For a beach holiday, you may prefer May (when the sea is still a little cool) and the first half of November (when the sea is warmer).
The mountain peaks can be visited in April and May when it is not as cold as in winter.
The list of Baja California Peninsula hurricanes includes all of the tropical cyclones that impacted the Baja California Peninsula, which includes the Mexican states of Baja California and Baja California Sur. In the period 1951 to 2000, Baja California had one hurricane and three tropical storms make landfall. During the same period, Baja California Sur witnessed nineteen hurricanes and thirty tropical storms. During the same time period, the region got hit by two major hurricanes (Hurricane Oliva in 1967 and Hurricane Kiko in 1989). The most expensive storm in the area is Hurricane Odile in 2014 and the deadliest is Hurricane Liza in 1976.
Most tropical cyclone impacts occurred in the month of September. This coincides with the statistical peak in the eastern north Pacific hurricane season, which occurs in late August/early September. Although hurricane season in the eastern north Pacific officially runs from May 15 to November 30, no known tropical cyclones have impacted the peninsula in May, November, or outside the season except Blanca Hurricane in May 2015.
If you dial 078 in Baja from any public, private or cell phone it will direct you to the tourist assistance hotline. Their bilingual staff can help you out with anything from emergency response to general travel information, 911 will get you emergency services.
- Is Baja California Peninsula safe?
Travel to Baja, California is enjoyed by many people without problems in the area. However, there are safety risks with travel there which should be known so that visitors can protect themselves from harm. The main problems come in the form of petty theft, police corruption and health issues. Precautions can be taken to reduce the risk of all of these safety concerns.
Petty theft is unfortunately common in Baja California. It usually takes the form of pickpocketing or purse snatching and is most likely to occur in crowded areas. On rare occasions, petty theft occurs along with more aggressive behavior. For example, “highway bandits” sometimes take over vehicles and force people to turn them over. Again, this is rare. Safety precautions include common self-defense for petty theft crimes as well as extra precautions such as avoiding driving at night.
Police corruption is also, unfortunately, a problem in the area. Though it is decreasing in occurrence, police have been known to pull tourists over on the road and demand payment as a bribe for being released. The best thing to do in such a situation is to cut your losses and hand over what you have. It is best to contact the local embassy of the home country of origin when this occurs.
In terms of health safety, the most common hazard is related to food and water. Common sense should prevail in this area in order to self-protect from harm. Avoid drinking anything but bottled water. Make sure that food from street vendors is thoroughly cooked. Do not eat anything which has been sitting out for too long.
Nevertheless, southern Baja is known to be the safest place in all of México. There have been no major problems, attributed to the drug war, in any area of southern Baja. If you are driving in northern Baja, it is impossible to avoid the border area and the big cities, in those areas there are some precautions you should take.
In general, despite these dangers, travel in Baja California is considered to be fairly safe and visitors should feel welcome in the area.
- A glimpse of Baja Peninsula landscape.
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K Tower Boutique Hotel Tijuana
ktowerhotel
youtube - LA RUMOROSA
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Don Tomas Viñedo Cabañas Valle de Guadalupe
La Villa del Valle
It's about one hour drive for 76 km.
Santa Rosalia is a unique Baja town with a very peculiar personality. The whole town was once dependent on the large copper mine that, even today, is a highly visible part of Santa Rosalía. Not a resort, in any sense of the word, this unique town is almost always busy and bustling with activity.
The beaches here could not be described as really pretty being mostly dark gray sand with a scattering of rocks and they are hardly ever used by the local residents.
It seems that the weather here is usually too hot in the summer and it can get a bit chilly in the winter. Santa Rosalía just does not have the qualities it takes to be, or become a serious resort destination.
That said, Santa Rosalía is worthy of a closer look if you have a little spare time on your drive south. If you can find a parking spot, you could spend an hour or two looking around this unique town and it would not be wasted time. There are a lot of opportunities for good photos, with all of the old mining equipment that is scattered about and the unique architecture in the downtown area.
What makes it quite singular is the fact that most of the buildings in the downtown area show in their architecture the French influence.
A little way into town is the Iglesia Santa Barbara, famous for being designed by Alexandre Gustave Eiffel who designed and built the Eiffel Tower. The prefab iron church was shipped from Europe in sections and then rebuilt in Santa Rosalia in 1897.
Very close to the church, also downtown, is a French bakery, Panadería El Boleo, that travelers and locals alike, seem to be addicted to. The baguettes produced here are supposed to be the best in all of México and the pastries and other bakery items are equally delicious. The bakery has been in constant operation since 1901.
There is a public library in Parque Morelos, at the east end of town near the harbor, that has an exhibit of historic photos from the town’s peak mining period.
Santa Rosalía is a good place to stop after your drive from San Ignacio (the last part of the drive, through some amazing ascents and descents, can really take it out of you) and relax for a while. There are several gas stations and some good seafood restaurants along the waterfront and of course, the bakery. If you need to restock your camper or motorhome, most supplies are available here, if you look around downtown. The ferry terminal (to Guaymas on mainland México) is on the waterfront just south of the entrance to the town, you can’t miss it.
There are a couple of cliff-side motels just south of town if you feel the need to stop for the night but the best option looks like to be Hotel Frances, built-in 1886, restored nicely with some upstairs rooms that give you a pretty good view of the Sea of Cortez.
Remember though, Mulegé is less than an hour away and the kicked-back “oasis” atmosphere may be more to your liking.
Bahía Concepción is a bay on the Gulf of California, in southeastern Mulegé Municipality and the central-eastern part of the Baja California Peninsula, in Baja California Sur state, Mexico.
It's one of the largest bays of the Baja California Peninsula and features over 50 miles of beaches. Some of the more popular beaches include (from north to south) Playa Frambes, Los Naranjos, Punta Arena, Santispac, Escondida, Los Cocos, El Burro, El Coyote, Buenaventura, Playa El Requeson, La Perla, Playa Armenta.
The view is stunning with its blue expanse dotted with islands and the mountains of the peninsula beyond, so close and yet so very far away. It’s no wonder most turn in and set up camp right here. There are lots of RVs parked for the season on the west end of the beach with quieter tent camping on the east end.
It’s a good, sheltered swimming beach, and there’s a popular hike on the flat terrain around the peninsula. Locals will rent you kayaks and take you out on boats to fish, clam, and say hi to the dolphins and whale sharks.
There are two restaurants: Armando’s and Anna’s.
If you’re tired of tortillas and are craving a salad, go to Armando’s and order the “Salad Darcy” (fresh greens with shrimp) or “Salad Rick” (fresh greens with shrimp wrapped in bacon), named for a gringo couple who live in one of the houses at the far end of the beach.
The hostel is a break from camping and an easy, quick overnight stay. It’s very basic, with about 20 bunks in one room attached to the restaurant. The $20/night fee includes morning bread and coffee, and you can make reservations via email. There are board games, books, and DVDs, comfortable tables, and Lucy offers very tasty home-cooked Mexican food morning to night with very generous portions. Baked goods include pizza, donuts, bread, or brownies, depending on the day. There’s a small, self-serve bar with beer and hard liquor.
You can rent homes in Posada via the Posada site. If you’re shopping for a second or retirement home or RV lot, there is always something for sale as retired residents age out and move back to the States or Canada.
Unfortunately, bad taste often wins and makes me cry that such beautiful places are spoiled with constructions of this kind, it's a real crime!
youtube - Exploring Baja California, Mexico
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youtube - Baja California Sur in 4K
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youtube - drone views of baja sur
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- Baja on the road - Tijuana/Los Cabos
I've been only once to Mexico, it was a short day visit from San Diego to Tijuana in the early '80s. Ever since I've been dreaming of a road trip through Baja California Peninsula, driving southbound all the way from Tijuana to Los Cabos.
To date, the dream didn't come true yet but this is my ideal road map.
Before starting, this is not a guide for an adventurous exploration of Baja backroads, my plan is to follow mostly the main roads and explore what the Peninsula has to offer in terms of hospitality industry.
If you are in for a badass backroad trip, no doubts that taking the roads less traveled pays off big in Baja but you need to plan it well ahead and be properly equipped.
In this blog, even if that's not my focus, you will find my best selection of videos available online with what to expect and useful tips.
youtube - Baja California Travel Guide
youtube - Baja Mexico Overland - Why THIS needs to be your next adventure
youtube - 5 Things You Need to Drive to Baja
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My plan would be arriving by plain directly to Tijuana airport (TIJ) from Mexico City airport (MEX), but in the case of arriving by car from San Diego, it's better to avoid the Otay Mesa border crossing because it means that you will have to traverse much of Tijuana, in what can only be described as heavily congested traffic! Better heading to San Ysidro border crossing where, being more west than the other port entry, you are very close to the center and also closer to the "1D" Highway that along the coast starts the descend of the peninsula 'till reaching Los Cabos on the southernmost tip of Baja.
Here a few tips if your driving from the States: fill up with gas, get some pesos and purchase your Mexican Auto Insurance (this is a must) before you enter México, either online or from one of the many outlets on the U.S. side of the border. Cross the border as early in the morning as possible and do it with a full tank of gas. Do not forget to get your (FMM) Immigration form, if you are planning on driving south of Ensenada or San Felipe on the eastern coast.
Now, if you travel to Baja, most probably, the northern border urban areas of Tijuana, Tecate or Mexicali, aren't the first reason for your trip, also considering that are the most dangerous areas of the whole peninsula.
In many countries, especially those with exceedingly unequal economies, the border areas are often dangerous regions, the same goes for Baja.
But, in my case, wanting to explore a bit of everything, I'd spend a night and day to explore Tijuana and not make of it just a drive-through.
Now, before going any further, I have to make clear that I'm not a young surfer driving through Baja on his old VW RV looking for remote spots, on a cliff or by the beach, at the end of impossible dirt dodgy roads, where to catch the last sunset surf and night camping under the stars eating canned food.
If I were twenty years younger that's exactly what I'd do like this guy in these three following videos
Adventurous, beautiful and romantic but that time for me is past, now I'm after good and comfortable hospitality and rich gastronomic experiences together with enjoying the natural environment and its beauty.
Unfortunately, I'm very picky and I know already that, while offering a stunning natural landscape, Baja is not the most exciting place in the world when it comes down to hospitality industry and architecture design. While the rest of Mexico has a lot to offer Baja is very basic in this field and caters mostly to the down to earth adventurer surfers sleeping under the stars
and the average Joe, Trump voter
who's very happy to go out the whole day on fishing trips and once back, after taking a selfie with the catch of the day,
ends the day with a Tecate or Margarita and cheap burritos and tacos sitting on a plastic chair at the table of a tourist resto on the Malecon.
Full respect for all categories of tourists, I'm an average Joe myself anyway, but this study is aimed at a different type of consumer.
This blog ain't the usual travel blog, the focus here isn't just exploring tourist destinations as a potential consumer, the focus here is studying tourism and related real estate markets scoping out for pristine locations where to develop high-end fully sustainable eco-hotels or resorts, possibly totally or almost totally off-the-grid.
Bearing this in mind and aware that Baja Peninsula, with the exception of Los Cabos and Valle Guadalupe, isn't properly geared up for discerning visitors, being most of it a vast outback of desert and shining seas, suitable only for serious adventurers with time on their hands, I've been looking for accommodations in Tijuana and I've found only two options meeting my minimum requirements, the first one would be One Bunk TJ Hotel, attractively set in the Centro district of Tijuana, is located an 8-minute walk from El Popo Market, 2.1 km from Tijuana Cultural Center and a 7-minute walk from Old Jai Alai Palace Forum. Among the facilities at this property are a 24-hour front desk and a concierge service, along with free WiFi throughout the property. The hotel hasn't parking facilities but I'm quite sure that they might be able to suggest a safe car park for your vehicle, better checking this out at the moment of booking.
Centro is a great choice for travelers interested in nightlife, bars, and entertainment and the hotel it's located on the main shopping strip, Avenida Revolución.
One Bunk Hotel Tijuana
If you like more comfort and parking facilities for your car then head to K Tower Boutique Hotel, located a 19-minute walk from Tijuana Cultural Center, has a restaurant, free private parking, a fitness center, and a bar. Featuring a concierge service, this property also provides guests with an outdoor pool. The property provides a 24-hour front desk, room service and currency exchange for guests.
ktowerhotel
Once the accommodation is arranged, during the day you can visit the Mercado El Popo, an authentic Mexican Market located downtown on Avenida Revolución where you see the large clock on the sidewalk. Nothing to be compared to a visit to Mercado de la Merced or Mercado de Sonora in Mexico City, the relatively small El Popo Market is a riot of color and activity and it's worth a visit to indulge in some authentic local culture.
Wander around the "Centro", Avenida Revolución and Plaza Santa Cecilia to understand how strong is the influence of the gringo's culture in this border town symbolized by the Tijuana Arch, a tacky version of the St. Louis Gateway Arch designed by Eero Saarinen in 1947.
Then head for sunset to the beach to embrace even more "La Frontera" feeling looking at the border fence at Playa de Tijuana ending in the Pacific. I have the feeling that contemplating this divide might be the most interesting moment of the Tijuana 24hrs experience.
For dinner, although you can enjoy the quintessential street and market food, there are a few options to choose from, both traditional and contemporary.
Upscale and traditional "Caesar's" on Avenida Revolución or "Casa Placencia" 10 minutes taxi ride from downtown or for a more casual dining experience, a visit to Telefónica Gastro Park is in order. It's a food truck park where you can sample some local artisanal beer and delicious food in a laid back atmosphere.
If you have managed to do all this on the day of your arrival, the day after before hitting the road, it's worth to pay a visit to the Tijuana Cultural Center (CECUT) in the Zona Río district.
Within the other cultural activities on offer, as long as a long drive is waiting for you, go straight for the permanent exhibition of Museo de las Californias, ("Museum of The Californias"), which houses over 200 pieces and demonstrates the history of the Baja Peninsula and the current U.S. state of California from the prehistoric period until the first half of the 20th century.
Passed 24 hours from your arrival to Tijuana you'll feel more than ready to hit the road, this border city hasn't much to offer but, as long as it is the starting point of the road trip through Baja, I think it's worth to give it 24hrs to experience the edgy feeling of "La Frontera".
If you have managed to do all this on the day of your arrival, the day after before hitting the road, it's worth to pay a visit to the Tijuana Cultural Center (CECUT) in the Zona Río district.
Within the other cultural activities on offer, as long as a long drive is waiting for you, go straight for the permanent exhibition of Museo de las Californias, ("Museum of The Californias"), which houses over 200 pieces and demonstrates the history of the Baja Peninsula and the current U.S. state of California from the prehistoric period until the first half of the 20th century.
Passed 24 hours from your arrival to Tijuana you'll feel more than ready to hit the road, this border city hasn't much to offer but, as long as it is the starting point of the road trip through Baja, I think it's worth to give it 24hrs to experience the edgy feeling of "La Frontera".
- La Carretera Rumorosa
At the start of the southbound road trip, this might be an interesting scenographic D-tour if you are willing to drive the extra miles towards east to reach La Rumorosa, but it's quite a drive (125km one way) and if you are heading south and have no reasons to go to Mexicali it might not be worth, considering also that you will have to drive through Tecate where the favorite police past time is pulling over cars targeting tourists and demanding fines for infractions they probably did not commit.
From Tijuana on the way to Mexicali, passed Tecate, you'll drive through "La Carretera Rumorosa", the famous road that crosses the Sierra de Juárez Mountains.
La Rumorosa (The Whisperer) owes its name to the sound of the wind between the capricious rock formations. This highway is one of those places that does not leave you indifferent. Maybe because nothing can prepare us for the striking views over the rocky mountain range and, in the distance, the immensity of the Laguna Salada all the way to Mexicali, beyond the horizon.
La Rumorosa is the name by which is known the section of the Sierra Juarez descending 500 m from Tecate to the plains of Laguna Salada stretching to Mexicali. La Rumorosa highway is a driver’s dream come true, especially if you are into riding motorcycles, with perfectly drawn curves.
Initially, this road was a two-way street dangerous due to the wind in the region and the steep grade of the road, as well as the recklessness of some drivers to try to finish this stretch of highway faster, causing numerous accidents. Currently, there are two two-lane roads each, one upstream and the other downstream, with improved marking and consequently, a significant reduction of accidents.
However, even with security measures, the road is still considered one of the most dangerous for inexperienced drivers, so it is always advisable to observe a minimum safe distance, to not exceed the speed limit, and use engine braking whenever possible.
- Tijuana - Valle de Guadalupe
So, the road trip begins with a relatively short first leg, 120km drive along the Pacific coast 'till a left turn, just before Ensenada, going inland to catch "La Ruta del Vino" in Valle de Guadalupe.
Nothing of interest on this stretch of road to justify any stop, not even Rosarito Beach, around 20 kilometers south than Tijuana, the first real coastal resort after the border.
In the Golden Age of Hollywood Dolores del Río, Orson Welles, Rita Hayworth, Katharine Hepburn, Ava Gardner and Spencer Tracey all got away to Rosarito, today is nothing more than the Joe Lunchbucket playground. Keep on driving to destination enjoying the view of the ocean on your right-hand side.
Valle de Guadalupe is home to vineyards and olive groves and small, boutique wineries and some interesting hotels like the "Endemico" also called "Encuentro", the destination selected for the first-night stay.
The hotel selected for the second night is "Bruma", only 4,5 km away in the same Valle de Guadalupe
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The hotel selected for the third night is "Don Tomas Viñedo Cabañas"
Other options are:
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Valle de Guadalupe has been referred to as the Napa Valley of Mexico, and for good reason. Its 1000 foot elevation and Mediterranean microclimate create ideal conditions for growing red wine grapes, particularly varietals that don’t fare well in Alta California, and the wines being produced by the region’s wineries are worth serious consideration, even by seasoned oenophiles. Its fine-dining restaurants, offering sophisticated food at a fraction of what you’d pay in America, are becoming so popular that their chefs are quickly ascending to celebrity status. But what makes the Valle so interesting is the total lack of pretense in its offerings. Envision Napa, but with no traffic, no “wine train,” no celebrity names on bottles. To visit this area is to spend a weekend in a state of low-key bliss, as long as your idea of a perfect Saturday involves good, inexpensive wine and friendly vineyard dogs.
The Wine.
Baja California produces nearly 70% of Mexico’s wine, and there are over 100 wineries along the Ruta del Vino (wine route) in Valle de Guadalupe, all established in the last 30 years. Maybe because of their relative newness, and the absence of the idea of a Grand Tradition that must be preserved, there’s a distinctly laid-back vibe to wine tasting in the Valle, but an energy of innovation and excitement. Not only are the region’s wines forward-thinking (many of them are organic and biodynamic, grown sustainably and with a minimum of chemicals) but the rules about which grapes to grow are dictated solely by the climate. The Bordeaux-style wines produced by Monte Xanic, the region’s oldest winery, work just as well as the Italian varietals going into the Nebbiolo and Brunello from Villa Montefiori just a few miles away. Viñas de Garza, with its terraced tasting room overlooking the vineyard, specializes in red blends like the Tinto de Mogorcito, a Cabernet/Merlot blend; and Colina Norte, made from Tempranillo, Carignan and Grenache. Vena Cava, an organic winery ripe for Instagramming, touts itself as the “hippest winery in Mexico,” and has an outdoor wine bar and a food truck on the premises. Their rules-do-not apply attitude is present in their wine blends - Big Blend is made from Cabernet, Syrah, Petite Sirah, Zinfandel and Grenache - and in the winery itself. Vena Cava’s wine cave is made from repurposed, salvaged boats.
The Food.
The spirit of innovation isn’t just in the wine along the Ruta del Vino. Restaurants that deliver an ultra-laid back version of fine dining are also on the rise, highlighting regional cooking techniques, locally-grown ingredients and Valle wines. Javier Plasencia’s Finca Altozano, a mostly outdoor restaurant, delivers exquisitely simple preparations of Baja cuisine, with a focus on seafood that came in from the port of Ensenada, half an hour away, just that morning.
What's been described as the French Laundry of Valle de Guadalupe is Fauna, helmed by chef David Castro Hussong, which drew attention from the likes of The New York Times when it opened last year. At 27 years old, Hussong is already being hailed as a star chef on the rise for his experimental tasting menus.
Drew Deckman is always mentioned third in the list of Valle chefs to watch, but is the only Michelin-starred one of the bunch. His restaurant, Deckman’s en el Mogor, is a sustainable eatery. All food is prepared in an outdoor kitchen, and all of the wine, vegetables, eggs, olive oil and more come directly from the Mogor Estate where the restaurant operates. There, simplicity is key: heaping plates of just-harvested vegetables are served roasted with roots and skin intact, cheeses are all made in the Valle and squid ink ceviche is garnished with flowers picked outside the dining room.
Finca Altozano Asador Campestre
Animalon Baja
The Wine.
Baja California produces nearly 70% of Mexico’s wine, and there are over 100 wineries along the Ruta del Vino (wine route) in Valle de Guadalupe, all established in the last 30 years. Maybe because of their relative newness, and the absence of the idea of a Grand Tradition that must be preserved, there’s a distinctly laid-back vibe to wine tasting in the Valle, but an energy of innovation and excitement. Not only are the region’s wines forward-thinking (many of them are organic and biodynamic, grown sustainably and with a minimum of chemicals) but the rules about which grapes to grow are dictated solely by the climate. The Bordeaux-style wines produced by Monte Xanic, the region’s oldest winery, work just as well as the Italian varietals going into the Nebbiolo and Brunello from Villa Montefiori just a few miles away. Viñas de Garza, with its terraced tasting room overlooking the vineyard, specializes in red blends like the Tinto de Mogorcito, a Cabernet/Merlot blend; and Colina Norte, made from Tempranillo, Carignan and Grenache. Vena Cava, an organic winery ripe for Instagramming, touts itself as the “hippest winery in Mexico,” and has an outdoor wine bar and a food truck on the premises. Their rules-do-not apply attitude is present in their wine blends - Big Blend is made from Cabernet, Syrah, Petite Sirah, Zinfandel and Grenache - and in the winery itself. Vena Cava’s wine cave is made from repurposed, salvaged boats.
The Food.
The spirit of innovation isn’t just in the wine along the Ruta del Vino. Restaurants that deliver an ultra-laid back version of fine dining are also on the rise, highlighting regional cooking techniques, locally-grown ingredients and Valle wines. Javier Plasencia’s Finca Altozano, a mostly outdoor restaurant, delivers exquisitely simple preparations of Baja cuisine, with a focus on seafood that came in from the port of Ensenada, half an hour away, just that morning.
What's been described as the French Laundry of Valle de Guadalupe is Fauna, helmed by chef David Castro Hussong, which drew attention from the likes of The New York Times when it opened last year. At 27 years old, Hussong is already being hailed as a star chef on the rise for his experimental tasting menus.
Chef Javier Placencia’s open-air Finca Altozano in the Valle de Guadalupe is rustic, casual and at the forefront of the valley’s culinary scene. The menu features farm-fresh ingredients, sustainable seafood and meats in its trendsetting dishes.
Having worked under Michelin star chefs, chef Oscar, a Los Angeles native, practices a globally influenced cuisine featuring plates inspired by the Mediterranean, 'Franco-Afrique,' India and Southeast Asia constantly changing and evolving to showcase his creativity and the abundance of produce sourced from nearby farmers and markets.
Valle de Guadalupe from a hospitality industry point of view is one of the most interesting areas of all Baja Peninsula as a consumer. In my opinion, being on the lookout for a pleasant and logistically ideal location for sustainable resort development, this area is only suitable if you are already in the wine business and you own or planning to buy a wine estate. And if you're not in this market niche the distance from the ocean is a great handicap.
Three max four days and nights are fine if you want to dig in the wine and restaurant scene of Valle de Guadalupe, then it's time to hit the road again.
Next leg ahead is 237 km about 3,5 hours drive, it's always good to start in the morning to have enough time for little D-tours and photo breaks, and be sure to arrive at destination, Bahia de San Quintín, before dark.
San Quintín Bay is recognized for its biodiversity and for being the largest coastal lagoon in the Southcoast ecoregion that has not been significantly affected by human activity. It includes approximately 4,000 acres of pristine habitats, including eelgrass beds, tidal zones, coastal salt marshes, dunes, washes, hypersaline lagoons, and coastal scrub. These habitats are of great importance for numerous species of plants and animals, many of which are endemic. The bay is also an important habitat for migratory and coastal birds.
Three max four days and nights are fine if you want to dig in the wine and restaurant scene of Valle de Guadalupe, then it's time to hit the road again.
- Valle de Guadalupe - Bahia de San Quintín
Next leg ahead is 237 km about 3,5 hours drive, it's always good to start in the morning to have enough time for little D-tours and photo breaks, and be sure to arrive at destination, Bahia de San Quintín, before dark.
San Quintín Bay is recognized for its biodiversity and for being the largest coastal lagoon in the Southcoast ecoregion that has not been significantly affected by human activity. It includes approximately 4,000 acres of pristine habitats, including eelgrass beds, tidal zones, coastal salt marshes, dunes, washes, hypersaline lagoons, and coastal scrub. These habitats are of great importance for numerous species of plants and animals, many of which are endemic. The bay is also an important habitat for migratory and coastal birds.
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When it comes to lodging, if you're traveling by a normal car and if you aren't equipped for camping, Bahia de San Quintín is one of those places that really make you miss a 4WD RV like this one
Lodging options in this area are very limited and show a perverse tendency towards ugliness and lack of taste.
Here's is Joe Lunchbucket who will write a very positive review on Trip Advisor about his overnight experience!
Thus, the best option available appears to be Hotel Jardines Baja.
- San Quintín - Guerrero Negro
Guerrero Negro is the largest town located in the municipality of Mulegé in the Mexican state of Baja California Sur.
The town has a celebration each year to hail the annual arrival of the gray whales that calve in the lagoons of Baja California Sur. This festival occurs during the first half of February.
Since the 20th century, a whale-watching industry has developed around the whales in the lagoon. Due to familiarity with humans, the whales that come to this lagoon are particularly known for their willingness to approach the whale-watching boats; sometimes the whales (especially the newborns) allow themselves to be petted by observers.
The world's biggest salt factory with its beautiful odd white crystalline plains is also a point of interest.
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Like in San Quintín, also in Guerrero Negro there's a very limited offer in terms of lodging and restaurants, best place to stay and eat appears to be Malarrimo.
- Porto Guerrero - San Ignacio
Next eastbound leg towards the inland, 150 km about two hours drive, from Porto Guerrero to San Ignacio it's very easy compared to the previous one.
Also in San Ignacio very few lodging options if you're not equipped for camping.
One is Rancho Espinoza and another one is Ignacio Springs Bed & Breakfast but behind a corner of the main square you'll find Casa Lereé home of an American Lady who runs there a bookstore, a photo archive like a little museum and a guesthouse with a couple of rooms, this would be my best choice.
To eat on the main square there is
and
next to the oasis, on the road toward the main square
San Ignacio is a palm oasis town in Mulegé Municipality of northern Baja California Sur state in Mexico, located on Mexican Federal Highway 1 between Guerrero Negro and Santa Rosalía.
With its large grove of lush, leafy date palms, sleepy San Ignacio is a welcome oasis after the seemingly endless Desierto de Vizcaíno.
A large spring-fed pond and a small river on the outskirts of town feeds into the central plaza and village next to the eighteenth-century Jesuit mission.
The town had a 2010 census population of 667 inhabitants and grew at the site of the Cochimí settlement of Kadakaamán and the Jesuit Mission San Ignacio founded in 1728 by Juan Bautista Luyando, but Dominicans supervised the construction of the striking church (finished in 1786) that still dominates the picturesque, laurel-shaded plaza.
San Ignacio serves as the gateway to San Ignacio Lagoon, the wintertime sanctuary of the Pacific gray whale.
A small self-guided museum offers a glimpse of the area’s natural history and also recreates the famous cave drawings found in nearby Sierra de San Francisco.
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- San Ignacio - Santa Rosalia
It's about one hour drive for 76 km.
Santa Rosalia is a unique Baja town with a very peculiar personality. The whole town was once dependent on the large copper mine that, even today, is a highly visible part of Santa Rosalía. Not a resort, in any sense of the word, this unique town is almost always busy and bustling with activity.
The beaches here could not be described as really pretty being mostly dark gray sand with a scattering of rocks and they are hardly ever used by the local residents.
It seems that the weather here is usually too hot in the summer and it can get a bit chilly in the winter. Santa Rosalía just does not have the qualities it takes to be, or become a serious resort destination.
That said, Santa Rosalía is worthy of a closer look if you have a little spare time on your drive south. If you can find a parking spot, you could spend an hour or two looking around this unique town and it would not be wasted time. There are a lot of opportunities for good photos, with all of the old mining equipment that is scattered about and the unique architecture in the downtown area.
What makes it quite singular is the fact that most of the buildings in the downtown area show in their architecture the French influence.
A little way into town is the Iglesia Santa Barbara, famous for being designed by Alexandre Gustave Eiffel who designed and built the Eiffel Tower. The prefab iron church was shipped from Europe in sections and then rebuilt in Santa Rosalia in 1897.
Very close to the church, also downtown, is a French bakery, Panadería El Boleo, that travelers and locals alike, seem to be addicted to. The baguettes produced here are supposed to be the best in all of México and the pastries and other bakery items are equally delicious. The bakery has been in constant operation since 1901.
There is a public library in Parque Morelos, at the east end of town near the harbor, that has an exhibit of historic photos from the town’s peak mining period.
Santa Rosalía is a good place to stop after your drive from San Ignacio (the last part of the drive, through some amazing ascents and descents, can really take it out of you) and relax for a while. There are several gas stations and some good seafood restaurants along the waterfront and of course, the bakery. If you need to restock your camper or motorhome, most supplies are available here, if you look around downtown. The ferry terminal (to Guaymas on mainland México) is on the waterfront just south of the entrance to the town, you can’t miss it.
There are a couple of cliff-side motels just south of town if you feel the need to stop for the night but the best option looks like to be Hotel Frances, built-in 1886, restored nicely with some upstairs rooms that give you a pretty good view of the Sea of Cortez.
Remember though, Mulegé is less than an hour away and the kicked-back “oasis” atmosphere may be more to your liking.
If you want to have lunch the best option appears to be "Las Marias Cenaduria", otherwise, the rule is that if you are in Santa Rosalia you have to eat bread from Panadería El Boleo and after savoring one of their bolillos, conchitas, empanadas, teleras, virotes, you are ready to take the road again to reach Mulegé, a short hour drive south.
- Santa Rosalia - Mulegé
The palm- and mangrove-lined Río Mulegé, with its delta, birds, wildlife and nearby snorkeling and diving opportunities, makes Mulegé a good stop.
Set down in a narrow arroyo (stream), Mulegé is prone to flooding when it gets pummeled by hurricanes and major storms (which tends to happen every two to three years). The river setting plus the 18th-century mission and town square give the town a remote, old-town feeling.
Mulegé remains relatively undiscovered in tourism circles. Those who come upon Mulegé, while driving the long geographical finger of the Baja California peninsula, end up intoxicated by its peacefulness.
No much to do and see anyway. You can walk the pedestrian bridge across the Rio Mulegé from the main town near the arch
heading to the Mission Santa Rosalia.
Don’t miss the stairs climbing upward to a lookout point. Here you will find one of the best views of the oasis-like setting in Mulege.
Then walk to the lighthouse. Overlooking calm, shimmering waters, jagged mountains and fields of palm trees in the distance, Mulegé’s lighthouse offers fantastic views of the town’s stunning surroundings. Following the river’s edge the whole way, it’s a beautifully peaceful 45-minute stroll from town. If you don’t fancy the walk, there’s a road that goes right to the base of the lighthouse (with room to park), and you can hike the short uphill trail to the top from there.
Unfortunately, Mulegé like most of the Baja Peninsula reminds you that if you want to make it in style you cannot rely on the local hotel industry, best option is driving a cool 4WD RV.
Also, there are about ten restaurants and no one seems to be worth a try, except for Las Casitas if you really need food
otherwise better heading down south 20 km direction Bahia de Concepción.
- Mulegé - Bahia de Concepción
The best option for an overnight stay seems to be the Lighthouse Resort of Playa Frambes.
But don't let the pictures fool you, the setting is idyllic but this is what you get inside
clean but not exactly the way I'd decorate my house but still better than the following alternative accommodation in Mulegé.
The day after, wind your way south, just a short scenic drive rolling down the hill with the view of Playa Santispac that opens up all of a sudden after a wide turn through the rocky hills,
to reach that picture-perfect scene that you always dreamt Baja California to be: white sand beaches and crystal clear azure waters backed by the cacti-dotted desert.
It's one of the largest bays of the Baja California Peninsula and features over 50 miles of beaches. Some of the more popular beaches include (from north to south) Playa Frambes, Los Naranjos, Punta Arena, Santispac, Escondida, Los Cocos, El Burro, El Coyote, Buenaventura, Playa El Requeson, La Perla, Playa Armenta.
Isn't too far from everything like many other beautiful places in the Peninsula, Playa Frambes is only 20 km away from Mulegé to the north, and Playa Armenta to the south isn't so far, 95 km, from Loreto and its International Airport and it’s one of the most beautiful mountainous coastal drives you'll ever make.
Bahía Concepción isn’t for everybody. If you like glitter and glam, fancy clothes, staying up all night, and hotels with room service, keep on going down the road. Here, life shuts down at 9 pm, It's called Baja midnight.
This is one of the most stunningly beautiful stretches of coast in Baja for its blue-green waters, white sandy coves and little construction, even though several of the beaches are becoming more built up. Many of the bays have palapas (thatch-roof structures) and camping areas and some expat communities living in cheap and cheerful houses by the beach.
I have already talked about Playa Frambes and the Light House Resort that is the first stop from Mulegé on the way south, from there, about 8 km drive you get to Playa Santispac, the first beach you can see straight from Highway 1 south of Mulegé.
It’s a good, sheltered swimming beach, and there’s a popular hike on the flat terrain around the peninsula. Locals will rent you kayaks and take you out on boats to fish, clam, and say hi to the dolphins and whale sharks.
There are two restaurants: Armando’s and Anna’s.
If you’re tired of tortillas and are craving a salad, go to Armando’s and order the “Salad Darcy” (fresh greens with shrimp) or “Salad Rick” (fresh greens with shrimp wrapped in bacon), named for a gringo couple who live in one of the houses at the far end of the beach.
Two minutes' drive and you get to Posada Concepción, a private community. There, you’ll find a hostel and restaurant, tennis court, and some long-term home rentals. There are RV spots and hookups by the road. Community power is on between 10 am to 10 pm. Kayak rentals are available at the office. The community is private property and driving around is not welcome, if you want to explore, park and walk.
You can rent homes in Posada via the Posada site. If you’re shopping for a second or retirement home or RV lot, there is always something for sale as retired residents age out and move back to the States or Canada.
Unfortunately, bad taste often wins and makes me cry that such beautiful places are spoiled with constructions of this kind, it's a real crime!
You don't need to be a millionaire to be able to build aesthetically attractive and functional houses, it's very easy to design even more affordable and sustainable architecture than the monstrosities we see in these pictures and that would add value to the environment also in terms of real estate market appreciation.
Less than 1,5 km and you get to Playa La Escondida
Playa Escondida, or “hidden beach,” is a short walk from Posada and separated from neighboring Playa Los Cocos (see below) at high tide by a small, rocky promontory. There are about ten palapas on the beach, some of which are occupied by smaller RVs and truck campers for the season. There are no amenities, just outhouses, and the vendors come by daily with most everything you need.
This is probably the most peaceful beach in the area, and the water is great for swimming, snorkeling, and kayaking. There’s an island a very short distance away for snorkeling and fishing. And, of course, you can walk to the restaurant at Posada.
This is probably the most peaceful beach in the area, and the water is great for swimming, snorkeling, and kayaking. There’s an island a very short distance away for snorkeling and fishing. And, of course, you can walk to the restaurant at Posada.
Just around the corner is Playa Los Cocos, a small campground next to the road and occupied almost exclusively by RVs.
a private community on the north end of the beach with RVs and tents on the south end. It offers great swimming, kayak rentals, and boating, and the dolphins and whale sharks like to hang out there.
Playa El Burro is a perfect place to chill out for motorcyclists, bicyclists, and other travelers who aren’t carrying a lot of stuff and want to stop and swim, kayak, see the whale sharks and just sit on the beach and chill.
youtube - Playa Buenaventura
Like Escondida, there are no amenities except outhouses and vendors, and it’s an easy walk to Posada.
3 km more south and you find Playa del Burro.
Playa El Burro is a perfect place to chill out for motorcyclists, bicyclists, and other travelers who aren’t carrying a lot of stuff and want to stop and swim, kayak, see the whale sharks and just sit on the beach and chill.
When you turn into El Burro, follow the signs to find Eduardo, a Baja gringo longtimer who can rent you a palapa and a kayak plus take you out on the boat for fishing, snorkeling, and diving tours. No contact info. Just show up.
Pepe’s Restaurant, which used to be Bertha’s, is on the beach at the north end of Burro, with indoor dining and a full bar.
Across the street, next to the estación de bomberos (fire station) is Juan Carlos’, aka JCs, with outdoor seating, a full bar, and outstanding oysters once a week and a once-monthly lamb curry concocted by a local Brit named Alex.
Juan Carlos of JC’s and Felipe are also El Burro Baja Tours (Facebook). They can take you to see the dolpins and whale sharks, fishing and for a picnic on an island, cooking fish, scallops, and clams.
Just a bit further south is Estrella del Mar (Facebook) with indoor dining and a full bar.
Next door to Estrella del Mar by the Tecate sign is Bertha’s tienda, a little store with basics, food, and beer, with the actual Bertha presiding. Note that this is the only store between Mulegé and Loreto.
3 km further south and you find Playa El Coyote is, along with El Burro, a favorite place for dolphins and whale sharks to hang out.
The north end of Playa El Coyote (Facebook) is a private community with locked gates and no public access from the road. But there’s camping on the south end for RVs, tents, and a spot
under a tree that always seems to be populated with bicycle adventure travelers. Outhouses and vendors are the only amenities.
After Playa El Coyote the Federal Hwy 1 turns right towards the inland driving around a few more interesting beaches that you can only reach if you have the right vehicle and a very adventurous spirit. If you stay on the main road after 13 km you'll meet again the sea of Cortez at Playa Buenaventura.
Playa Buenaventura is an isolated getaway halfway between Mulegé and Loreto with camping and houses for rent with a great restaurant and bar. It’s run by the ever-genial Mark and Olivia along with young Nathan. The beach is lovely, and its proximity to El Requesón beach makes it pretty irresistible, too. If you want to relax in an isolated and rustic setting but appreciate flush toilets, hot showers, a decent restaurant, and a full bar, you’re going to be happy here.
The restaurant Taco Tuesdays are very popular and on other days they offer great burgers and a variety of both Mexican and gringo food.
Camping is 60 pesos per person. There are flush toilets and on-demand hot water showers for 2 dollars or 40 pesos and kayaks are available, too. They have a house and private rooms that you can book in advance. Find them on Facebook.
Again a very short drive, 2,5 km, to reach the next beach, El Requesón.
Playa El Requesón is one of the most ruggedly spectacular beaches in Baja. Low tide reveals a stretch of sand that many people used to set up camp on until they realized that that high tide was going to sink them. Today, the caretakers won’t let you do that.
Camping is rustic with just outhouses and the usual vendors providing supplies.
Not to be missed are also the next two beaches, Playa La Perla
and Playa Armenta.
- Bahia de Concepción - Loreto
Loreto (or Conchó) is a resort town and municipal seat of Loreto Municipality, with 20,385 inhabitants is located about 350 km north of La Paz, the capital of Baja California Sur state.
Loreto is located on the east coast of the Baja California Peninsula, at 26º00'46" N 111º20'36" W. It is bordered on the east by the Gulf of California, on the west by the Transpeninsular Highway, and on the south by the Arroyo Loreto, a dry creek bed that only fills with water after a heavy rainfall. The city is built on relatively flat land with an average elevation is 10 meters (33 ft) above sea level. “La Giganta” Mountain Range (“Sierra de la Giganta”) lies to the west, extending along the center of the state of Baja California Sur, parallel to the gulf coast.
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youtube - Loreto, Baja California Sur, Mexico
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youtube - Tips to visit Loreto in Baja
After Loreto, next leg ahead is 356 km about 4 hours drive to reach La Paz, the Capital City of Baja California Sur.
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vimeo - La Paz
Within all the options available, around the urban area of La Paz there's plenty of little bays and beaches more or less serviced and developed and some totally deserted not yet exploited worth to explore on the way to Playa Balandra, one of the most beautiful beaches of Baja peninsula and whole Mexico, Playa Balandra.
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The city is a tourist resort, catering mostly to American travelers, with daily flights from California to Loreto International Airport. Many American tourists enjoy fishing in "pangas" for "dorado" (Mahi-mahi or Dolphin Fish) with local restaurants willingly to cook their daily catch.
With pleasant weather year-round, Loreto invites you to come outside and play. Less crowded than some resort towns, it's a great base for snorkeling, sport fishing or just relaxing on the beach. Annual whale migrations draw massive crowds in springtime.
Posada de las Flores downtown seems to be the best option available on the upscale side
Right on the Malecon, Sukasa Bungalows is a budget option
To eat plenty of options, here my two best choices:
Blue Anchor Resto Bar on the northern tip of the Malecón
and Claudia's Restaurant downtown
Before continuing the journey south it might be worth making a little D-tour to Ensenada Blanca to see the Danzante Bay, classic example of the predatory business model and mindset of the usual real estate developers that seize large land plots in unspoiled and pristine locations to build nothing else than another high-density golf resort with hotels, villas, services, etc., ensuring you on their website that "Preserving the natural environment of this wonderful location is our top priority. Our many green initiatives minimize the impact of the resort and villas to protect and preserve them for future generations.", yeah!!!
The following picture is the current masterplan with only two, El Cardon and Canyon Neighborhood, of the five planned areas to be built, the three not yet designed areas, Beach Front Estates, Mountain and Cliffside Neighborhood are marked in white.
- Loreto - La Paz
After Loreto, next leg ahead is 356 km about 4 hours drive to reach La Paz, the Capital City of Baja California Sur.
La Paz has a population of about 250.000 inhabitants, making it the most populous city in the state. Its metropolitan population is somewhat larger because of the surrounding towns, such as El Centenario, Chametla and San Pedro. It is in La Paz Municipality, which is the fourth-largest municipality in Mexico in geographical size and reported a population of 290.000 inhabitants on a land area of 20.275 km2.
The population of La Paz has grown greatly since the 2000s. The growth is largely because the city has one of the highest standards of living and security in Mexico.
La Paz is served by the Manuel Márquez de León International Airport with flights to the most important cities of Mexico: Mexico City, Guadalajara, Monterrey. Airlines flying into La Paz include Aeroméxico Connect, Volaris and VivaAerobus. Two ferry services operate from the port of Pichilingue outside the city, connecting the Baja California peninsula to the mainland at Mazatlán and Topolobampo, near Los Mochis.
La Paz has a desert climate. The climate of La Paz is relatively consistent with generally little rainfall, with a year-round average temperature of between 17 and 30 °C (63 and 86 °F). Summer months (July–September) typically see highs between 34 and 36 °C (93 and 97 °F) and dew points of 21–23 °C (70–73 °F).[3] The winter months (December–February) are the coldest with temperatures dropping below 15 °C (59 °F) at night, but mostly maxima are from 20 to 25 °C (68 to 77 °F). Breezes from Bahía de La Paz moderate the temperature. The bay also acts as a barrier against seasonal storms in the Gulf of California.
Rainfall is minimal at most times of the year, although erratic downpours can bring heavy rains. Rain tends to be concentrated in a short, slightly rainier season that peaks in August and September, following the pattern of the North American Monsoon. The driest season, where it is common to have no rain, occurs March through June. La Paz averages over 300 days of sunshine annually and an average of 3148 sunshine hours.
During the summer the cooling Coromuel winds, a weather phenomenon unique to the La Paz area, blow during the night from the Pacific over the Peninsula and into the Bay of La Paz.
As with most of the Gulf of California, the temperature of the water changes substantially over the course of the year, with temperatures around 68 °F (20 °C) during winter and around 85 °F (29 °C) during summer.
Eco-tourism is by far the most important source of tourism income in La Paz. Tourists also visit the city's balnearios. There are some 900 islands and inlets in the Gulf of California with 244 now under UNESCO protection as World Heritage Bio-Reserves and the Isla Espíritu Santo group, which borders the northeast portion of the Bay of La Paz, the primary tourist destination of the area.
Industries include silver mining, agriculture, fishing and pearls. Tourism is also an important source of employment for this coastal community.
Along with the area's marinas, new developments are emerging because of the proximity to the United States.
Also in La Paz, the hotel scene hasn't yet much to offer to discerning travelers.
Here are my best two options, in the heart of downtown, right on the side of Catedral de Nuestra Senhora de La Paz, there's Hotel Catedral.
A few blocks away, right on the Malecón, there's Casa al Mar.
My best choices for restaurants, El Toro
Nim,
Things to do in La Paz. It's very easy to google it and pick up what is the best advice for you, I did it and here below is a random choice:
- La Paz - Playa Balandra and Isla Espiritu Santo
Within all the options available, around the urban area of La Paz there's plenty of little bays and beaches more or less serviced and developed and some totally deserted not yet exploited worth to explore on the way to Playa Balandra, one of the most beautiful beaches of Baja peninsula and whole Mexico, Playa Balandra.
Located on the Eastern side of the peninsula, but faces west, as the southern tip comes up.
It's perhaps the most beautiful beach in all of Mexico, the perfect getaway for those who seek a pristine beach with stunning views.
Balandra beach is completely undeveloped, featuring only stretches of beautiful white sand and calm, shallow turquoise water.
Balandra is also home to the iconic mushroom rock.
As of 2008, Balandra Beach was designated a Natural Protected Area which forestalls commercial development. The beach remains pristine and unspoiled.
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youtube - Playa Balandra
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youtube - Balandra, cómo llegar a la playa más bonita de México
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youtube - Playa Balandra
youtube - Playa El Tecolote
youtube - Isla Espiritu Santo y La Paz Baja California Sur
Back on the mainland, from Tecolote with a 4WD you can follow the coastline driving westbound and then south with a stretch of wild beaches like Las Pilitas, Pulguero, Puerto Mexia where someone built a large villa with pool and helicopter pad right on a cliff
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As long as Playa Balandra is not serviced, around the corner the next Playa is Tecolote
with couple of places where you can have food and drinks
Once in the area, a must is Isla Espirito Santo and Isla Partida.
Isla Espíritu Santo is separated from Isla Partida by a narrow canal.
It has a land area of 80.763 square kilometers (31.183 sq mi), the 12th-largest island in Mexico. Isla Partida's land area is 15.495 square kilometers (5.983 sq mi). They are part of La Paz Municipality and are both a short boat trip from La Paz on the Baja California Peninsula.
The area is protected as part of the Área de Protección de Flora y Fauna and is an important eco-tourism destination. It was declared part of a Biosphere Reserve by UNESCO in 1995. The islands are both uninhabited. Ensenada Grande beach, on Isla Partida, was voted the most beautiful beach in Mexico by The Travel Magazine and one of the top 12 beaches in the world.
The dramatic vastness and the cinematic baldness of Baja Peninsula find here one of its best expressions, you come here to detox with a full immersion in overwhelming nature and you'll end up intoxicated by its majesty.
This is one of the cleanest ocean stretches of the planet, Jacques Cousteau called it the Aquarium of the World.
There are plenty of boat-tours leaving from different locations that can be booked for a day visit.
If you want to stay overnight Baja Camp offers you the castaway experience in a very basic camp that caters to the high-end market with its selective price tag per night per two pax.
Their website reads:
"The multitude of fish and shellfish from the Sea of Cortéz allows us to offer you a great variety of tasty and fresh dishes. A chef well-trained in Mediterranean and Mexican cuisine will alternate between tasty pasta's, and risottos, and ceviches and local dishes prepared in a simple and refined way. Tropical fruits will always be served for breakfast. Chilean and Californian wines will be served with the meals."
If you can afford it don't miss it.
There are few other campsite options available, one is Camp Cecil, probably the best if you want to do it in style.
On one of the island´s most beautiful beaches features beautifully decorated walk-in tents with real beds, lovely linens, bedside tables, lanterns, beach towels, storage space, rugs, chairs, and more. Espiritu Xantus Café is where our on-site chef makes wonderful meals for you every day – and daily happy hour of course - and there are two sun showers and two compost toilet cabañas.
And one more, Campsite Fun Baja on Isla Partida
- Tecolote - El Sargento
Back on the mainland, from Tecolote with a 4WD you can follow the coastline driving westbound and then south with a stretch of wild beaches like Las Pilitas, Pulguero, Puerto Mexia where someone built a large villa with pool and helicopter pad right on a cliff
and further south with a few more luxury villas scattered around the desertic landscape in dominant positions overlooking the Sea of Cortez and the island of Ceralvo on the horizon,
with many more little beaches like Boca del Rosario
Muertitos
El Saltito
and Playa Las Cruces with the 5-star hotel Rancho Las Cruces with daily rates around €750
and then driving to Punta Gorda de San Eulogio and El Jalito
where it starts Bahia de la Ventana with a very long sandy coastal stretch, about 30 km, all the way to the easternmost tip of the Bahia, Punta Arena de la Ventana.
Discovered in 1985 by American windsurfers, La Ventana and El Sargento are two hospitable neighboring communities located just in front of the Sea of Cortez and Cerralvo Island, 40 minutes from La Paz airport and a two hour driving from Los Cabos International Airport.
This place has become a destination for many outdoor sports lovers who like to practice primarily water sports like kiteboarding and windsurfing. But also it is a place of residence for many foreigners who are looking for a peaceful lifestyle in a natural paradise.
La Ventana and El Sargento have beautiful landscapes of the bay, Cerralvo Island and the beautiful mountains. There is extraordinary biodiversity including many different plants, especially cactus, and this is also one of the reasons why this destination has become the favorite for many foreigners who travel by car throughout Baja California from Canada and USA. Many of them travel with their big motor homes and settle here from September till April.
La Ventana / El Sargento, the number one destination for kitesurfing according to Discovery Channel, has many different areas for take-off and launching your kite. Thanks to the side shore steady and strong winds from mid-October to April and to its more than 30 kilometers long L shape bay this destination is really a perfect place for kitesurfing and kiteboarding. You can sail long down-winders starting from either the area called "Hot-Springs" or the "Rasta Beach", ending up at Playa Central or Baja Joe's to enjoy a nice mojito or a fresh beer.
If you are a foodie lover, La Ventana / El Sargento has a variety of cafes and little restaurants offering exquisite local dishes. You can dine on Mexican food or listen to live music at one of the local bars while refreshing yourself with a nice margarita cocktail.
In this area there're quite a few options for lodging, here is my best choice:
La Palizada del Mar at $290 per night
If you are a foodie lover, La Ventana / El Sargento has a variety of cafes and little restaurants offering exquisite local dishes. You can dine on Mexican food or listen to live music at one of the local bars while refreshing yourself with a nice margarita cocktail.
In this area there're quite a few options for lodging, here is my best choice:
La Palizada del Mar at $290 per night
Casa Corazon with rates starting at $225 per night
Ventana Bay Resort with rates ranging from $140 to $275 per night
Casa Tara Welness & Yoga Retreat with rates around $200 per night and Moringa Restaurant, probably the best restaurant in the area.
As for food Café El Triunfo
Nobody can question the quality of the Four Seasons' but this hotel is way far from the best the Four Season worldwide portfolio has to offer.
The redundancy and ostentation of luxury typical of Grand Hotels does not impress me, for me luxury lies in the exclusivity of the small dimensions and low density, in the design that expresses the emotion of uniqueness in simplicity, capable without imposing itself to emphasize the intrinsic qualities of the natural or urban context in which it is inserted with a clever design full of personality. At the end of this on-the-road trip itinerary, in the following chapter concerning the spotted areas for potential resort developments, I will return in-depth on hospitality design but for now, I just want to show three random images of different Mexican hotels that match my personal aesthetic taste
Descending the coastline from Costa Palmas, after 55 km 1,5-hour drive, next stop is Villa del Faro Hotel on the Camino Costero of Boca de la Vinorama.
From Villa del Faro, after 40 km and 1 hour 20 minutes drive along the dusty coastal stretch of Camino Cabo Este we reach the Zadun Ritz Carlton Reserve on the outskirt of San José del Cabo.
vimeo - Todos Santos
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ChiloChill Glamping Resort with rates that range from $120 to $145 per night
Baja View Project with daily rates around $70
- El Sargento - El Triunfo
After El Sargento without a 4WD the only option is the Carretera Transpeninsular heading towards inland to San Antonio first, then westbound to El Triunfo, about 45 km and 40 minutes drive, a colonial-era gold and silver mining town founded in 1748 with a population of 327 inhabitants.
The town is now considered an ‘in situ’ museum with well-preserved buildings and mansions from the era and three old cemeteries: one for US citizens, another for the Chinese and a third for Mexicans.
Why it's worth visiting such a small and sleepy village far from the coast? Centuries back El Triunfo offered gold and silver to European and American capitals. Today it outlives with great dignity that fatal destiny that all mining towns face: the depletion of its mines.
When the Old California scarcely had a handful of energetic inhabitants, El Triunfo lodged up to ten thousand souls during the mining boom. What is left of its homes and of its civil buildings shows something from the past splendor of its inhabitants. At the same time that the old folk’s memories revives and magnifies employment, salaries, manufacturing installations, workshops, smoke, movement, music and fandango, in a dizzy succession of memories that contrast with a present as ghostly as the spectrum of the great men of the town that loaf around the site proximities where they hide –so it’s said- the enormous accumulated richness during the years of magnificence.
In the proximities of the civil buildings that stubbornly maintain standing and in the large vestal houses which show its bricks behind the cement, an enormous chimney designed by a European architect of that epoch shows its construction verticality and strength built to withstand earthquakes, hurricane winds and even the inexorable pickaxe of time. There it is.
The scarce El Triunfo settlers use this name as an all defeating word, just as a wild card in the regional card game of the "malilla". While they wait for the discovery of new silver and gold mines that would once again play (in reconstructed red-bricked halls and on shiny parquet) polka music, schottische, and Viennese waltzes, with sober pride of ruined bourgeoisies offer its travelers its pitajayas, sweetsop, cheeses and palm shoot crafts, a cultural legacy of Samuel Hayward, a Chilean of English ancestry that would arrive to the town in 1918.
El Triunfo, however, refuses to live from its ghost stories and from past glories founded upon the mirage of precious metals: its inhabitants beautify, however they can, the most visible façade of the buildings and reconstruct the valuable ones. In one of them, they have opened a singular Museo de la Música (Music Museum) that is much appreciated by its visitors… and by the people from El Triunfo.
While progress arrives mounted in globalization, the people of El Triunfo do not "cross themselves" with their ghosts nor do they sleep on laurels of past greatness: they work to survive, but enjoy the midday humming of the summer cicada and during the always calm night time, from the opaque cowbells and from the crowing from the sleepless rooster on its stand.
Visit also Museu Ruta de Plata with the history of mining.
it's time to hit the road towards the southernmost tip of Baja Peninsula.
Worth a visit is also the Cactus Sanctuary, a nature reserve covering almost 124 acres where different species of primitive cacti native to the peninsula are protected.
Why I gave so much space to such a small place? El Triunfo is probably the most authentic and unspoiled urbanized area you can visit in Baja, an amazing journey back in time in a "pueblito" kept in pristine conditions untouched by modernity,
with only 327 inhabitants it has a lot to offer, two museums, a large botanical garden, three old cemeteries for different settlers nationalities, two characteristic and rustic hotels with restaurant plus five more restaurants-cafes, indeed worth a visit.
For an overnight stay, Casa Santa Cruz with $492 daily rate in June
or Cabañas El Triunfo with daily rates ranging from $45 to $74
As for food Café El Triunfo
and Bar El Minero
- El Triunfo - Costa Palmas
After couple of nights in El Triunfo it's time to hit the road again down south to reach after about 75 km and 1,5-hour drive the Four Seasons Resort at Costa Palmas with daily rates ranging from $765 to $1.035.
Nobody can question the quality of the Four Seasons' but this hotel is way far from the best the Four Season worldwide portfolio has to offer.
The redundancy and ostentation of luxury typical of Grand Hotels does not impress me, for me luxury lies in the exclusivity of the small dimensions and low density, in the design that expresses the emotion of uniqueness in simplicity, capable without imposing itself to emphasize the intrinsic qualities of the natural or urban context in which it is inserted with a clever design full of personality. At the end of this on-the-road trip itinerary, in the following chapter concerning the spotted areas for potential resort developments, I will return in-depth on hospitality design but for now, I just want to show three random images of different Mexican hotels that match my personal aesthetic taste
No one of these hotels is in Baja.
- Costa Palmas - Boca de la Vinorama
Descending the coastline from Costa Palmas, after 55 km 1,5-hour drive, next stop is Villa del Faro Hotel on the Camino Costero of Boca de la Vinorama.
With daily rates ranging from $160 to $385 in June, it's an interesting spot for an overnight stay. The hotel is a 5-star, again not exactly my taste but nice wild location much more interesting than the previous stop at the Four Season.
There are miles of empty beach, trails into the mountains, ocean swimming, bird watching, snorkeling, and long solitary walks to take in either direction. Stay on the balcony or patio of your room or look out the bedroom window and watch the whales jump. At Villa del Faro, you'll be surrounded by the majesty of nature.
Ideally, this would be already the end of my Baja Peninsula road trip. Southern than this point, we enter the Los Cabos area. Here, the magic of Baja fades away in a relatively overdeveloped and overexploited market with inflated real estate prices and services. The ocean breeze here has lost the smell of adventure and wilderness, in favor of the fragrances of the large and very well-manicured 5-star hotel gardens.
Not exactly my favorite field but the exploration continues because it's important to check who are the players in the high-end hotel market and check if they have some unique to offer more than the standardized 5 stars quality.
- Boca de la Vinorama - San José del Cabo
From Villa del Faro, after 40 km and 1 hour 20 minutes drive along the dusty coastal stretch of Camino Cabo Este we reach the Zadun Ritz Carlton Reserve on the outskirt of San José del Cabo.
From there on, is an endless sequence of the most common hotel chains like Hyatt, Westin, One & Only, etc, with condo-style massive buildings some of them outrageously oversized and trivially and vulgarly imposing on the natural surroundings
Some of them, show details that are somehow enticing but they remain imposing on an unsustainable scale, aesthetically and environmentally.
This is no longer Baja, this is more Acapulco.
The only thing I really like about this mega-hotels is this
And how about urbanizations like Del Mar Development on such a great scale.
And with more to come as we can see in the following pictures.
If it goes on this way, within short, it will look very much like Montecarlo, the densest country of the world.
This scenario isn't exactly what you think of when you book a ticket to Baja, at least not myself but I'm aware that, unfortunately, many like this kind of Las Vegas on the southern point that divides the Sea of Cortez from the open Pacific.
As a cherry on the pie, it's only missing a Trump Casino.
Inevitably, some price must be paid to the rampant globalization and gentrification and it could be bearable if this would remain limited to a certain area ending in Playa El Suspiro, the western outskirt of Cabo San Lucas, but the reality is that, only a matter of time and it will get all the way up to Todos Santos creating a huge tentacular urbanized coastal area Miami style.
Looking for and interested in studying low-density, environmentally friendly hotels that provide service and environment in line with the requests of a discerning and design-conscious clientele, for an overnight stay, the only hotel that really inspires me a visit, despite the fact that some Tripadvisor reviews complain about the fact that the overall service falls short on different aspects, is Acre TreeHouse Hotel, with daily rates at $240 in June, an adult-only establishment with just 12 treehouse cabins set on 25 acres of abundant greenery tucked in the foothills of San José del Cabo even if they also can't do without a golf course, apparently, in Los Cabos a resort cannot exist without it.
As per the food scene, checking out Tripadvisor I've noticed that, while in any other location of the peninsula, on the restaurant's page together with all the others you find obviously listed the number of Mexican restaurants available, in Los Cabos main page there's no mention of it even if there'are obviously.
As per the food scene, checking out Tripadvisor I've noticed that, while in any other location of the peninsula, on the restaurant's page together with all the others you find obviously listed the number of Mexican restaurants available, in Los Cabos main page there's no mention of it even if there'are obviously.
Nevertheless, plenty of choices in the Los Cabos area for a feast even if I have the feeling that also in this case what's available is what I would find in any other high-end tourist destinations around the world and I might even end up dreaming of canned food sitting around a campfire on top of a cliff overlooking the ocean at twilight. But there's one option that might be able to give you a bit of different experience and worth try and is Flora Farms, a 25-acre organic working farm and an open-air restaurant in the foothills of Sierra de la Laguna, just on the outskirt of San José del Cabo.
Their website reads:
"From Our Field to Your Table. Flora’s Field kitchen is about handmade food using our farm-fresh ingredients. Our goal is to create a healthy family meal with a sense of place.
The original Flora Restaurant was in San Jose del Cabo. After 5 years in town, and the farm serving as the main provider for the restaurant, the owner decided she would rather bring the restaurant to the farm instead of the other way around. Flora’s Field Kitchen strives to only serve what we make, raise and grow.
Our menu is seasonal, with some permanent classics. All meats served at Flora’s Field Kitchen come from our nearby 150-acre ranch where animals are humanely raised on diets that do not include hormones or antibiotics - and we do not offer beef on the menu as it is not sustainable and there is not enough water in Baja."
Their website reads:
"From Our Field to Your Table. Flora’s Field kitchen is about handmade food using our farm-fresh ingredients. Our goal is to create a healthy family meal with a sense of place.
The original Flora Restaurant was in San Jose del Cabo. After 5 years in town, and the farm serving as the main provider for the restaurant, the owner decided she would rather bring the restaurant to the farm instead of the other way around. Flora’s Field Kitchen strives to only serve what we make, raise and grow.
Our menu is seasonal, with some permanent classics. All meats served at Flora’s Field Kitchen come from our nearby 150-acre ranch where animals are humanely raised on diets that do not include hormones or antibiotics - and we do not offer beef on the menu as it is not sustainable and there is not enough water in Baja."
They also have a Culinary Cottages and Hillside Haylofts for sale at Flora Farms Real Estate but due to unprecedented interest and sales since public launch, the Hillside Haylofts are no longer available to the general public. The limited remaining inventory is for sale, however, it is available only to those who receive a Private Invitation.
20 luxurious units, hand-crafted, hay bale constructed cottages, with most details such as furniture, windows, floors, walls and trims made right at the farm. Cottage owners enjoy the ability to pick farm produce if they wish, to prepare in their wonderfully-outfitted cottage kitchen.
All these units are available for rental, this would be my best choice for an overnight stay.
Embracing the soothing atmosphere of a flourishing organic farm, there's also a Farm Spa nestled amongst papaya trees and the herbs and flowers of the spa garden. The path to the Farm Spa walks you past rows of seasonal produce and flowers, where you can hear birds singing and where you might catch a glimpse of one of our farm dogs napping in the sun.
Then it's time for the very last leg of this long journey, about 75 km and one hour drive to Todos Santos with the Pacific always on your side.
20 luxurious units, hand-crafted, hay bale constructed cottages, with most details such as furniture, windows, floors, walls and trims made right at the farm. Cottage owners enjoy the ability to pick farm produce if they wish, to prepare in their wonderfully-outfitted cottage kitchen.
All these units are available for rental, this would be my best choice for an overnight stay.
- Cabo San Luca - Todos Santos
Then it's time for the very last leg of this long journey, about 75 km and one hour drive to Todos Santos with the Pacific always on your side.
Todos Santos is a small coastal town in the foothills of the Sierra de la Laguna Mountains, on the Pacific coast side of the Baja California Peninsula, about an hour's drive north of Cabo San Lucas on Highway 19 and an hour's drive southwest from La Paz. Todos Santos is located very near the Tropic of Cancer in the municipality of La Paz. The population was 6,485 at the census of 2015.
The Mexican Government paved Highway 19 in the mid-1980s. The highway brought tourists and the rich farmlands have been revived. The town now prospers from farming vegetables, chilies, avocados, papayas and mangoes; as well as from fishing and ranching.
More recently, there has been a gradual increase in tourist activity and a boom in real estate development. Handicraft shops, owner-operated art galleries featuring landscape paintings of local scenes (some artists from Guadalajara and other parts of Mexico also exhibit works in Todos Santos), upscale restaurants, boutique hotels and restored colonial buildings have contributed to the gentrification and redevelopment of the town. There a few annual festivals including the Festival de Cine and the Todos Santos Music Festival.
There are many beautiful beaches within a 15-minute drive of Todos Santos. However, some of the area’s beaches, with rip tides, undertows, and fairly steep drop-offs close to shore, are not considered safe for swimming. Playa Las Palmas and Playa Los Cerritos are great beaches for swimming and shell collecting. San Pedrito Point, Los Cerritos and other local surf breaks attract surfers from around the world. There are many accommodations both at San Pedrito and at Cerritos beach.
Todos Santos, Baja California Sur, was named a "Pueblo Mágico" in 2006.
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For an overnight stay, here are my best choices:
Located in a 19th-century red-brick historic building in the heart of Todos Santos, Baja California Sur, our comfortable and spacious 14 rooms feature Mexican decor with upgraded amenities.
The Classic Room starting at $238 per night
The Deluxe Room starting at $255 per night
The Oasis Suite starting at $400 per night
As soon as you arrive, you can walk around the art galleries and boutiques of this authentic Mexican village or simply take a 10-minute drive to relax in our pristine beach club by the Tropic of Cancer. During the afternoons you can explore one of our three gastronomical experiences with breathtaking views, while you enjoy at all times an atmosphere of relaxation and delight.
El Faro Beach Club & Spa is a unique place to relax in a pristine beach located 2 miles from the historic center of Todos Santos and a short walk from the Tropic of Cancer. The beach club features an infinity pool with a zero-carbon footprint, a poolside seafood grill & bar and health, wellness and relaxation Spa treatments.
El Mirador Restaurant offers a fine dining experience with a stunning view of the Pacific Coast and the most spectacular sunsets. Feast on our Mexiterranean creations prepared with ingredients from the contiguous sea and orchards, while enjoying the view of the beach, the desert and the mountains.
My other choice is the more intimate La Bohemia Hotel Pequeño at about $185 per day.
This is how they introduce themselves:
"La Bohemia Baja is more than just a hotel. It's the embodiment of our philosophy on traveling. We believe in the fresh air of the great outdoors, getting off the beaten path, excellent eating and drinking, and most importantly, a great night of sleep. La Bohemia Baja is a hotel by travelers for travelers and we have taken great care to create a cozy and upbeat environment where you can make the most of your time here in beautiful Baja California Sur."
And as for food, this is what they have to offer:
"Starting with our farm fresh breakfast in the mornings, Todos Santos has organic written all over it. From the organic farms that encompass the town to the fresh fish that come out of the sea daily, the food in this town is outstanding!!!! We honestly have a food tour that would take you 5 days to get through, so definitely when you get here, be prepared to eat well. Even though we are in Mexico, some of the best eating in this town is sushi and sashimi. Fresh yellowtail prepared in 4 different ways from handrolls to baked collar. We also have the best Italian restaurant in Baja and some may argue in their life. From fish tacos (best ever!) to pastor, you can eat well here everyday! the food is one of our main attractions in this town, so come hungry and make sure to ask us where to eat!"
Hotel San Cristobal Baja, with daily rates ranging from $515 to $700 in June, it's named in honor of Saint Christopher, patron of travelers, surfers, sailors and protector during long journeys, and is positioned along the Tropic of Cancer and framed by the Sierra de la Laguna mountains, Punta Lobos, and the Pacific Ocean, less than 5 km from Todos Santos downtown.
Hotel San Cristóbal consists of 32 rooms and suites situated around a central pool and lounge that were designed to complement the beauty of the surrounding nature. The intimate property is home to a restaurant and bar, as well as a library, a seaside mirador, and a small retail shop.
Benno, the hotel’s restaurant and bar, offers a union of classic Mexican and Mediterranean cuisine, built on the diverse culinary abundance of Baja.
As you explore Todos Santos and nearby communities, you will see the fishermen drive their panga boats onto the beach and pull in their daily haul, smell pungent basil in the night air and watch truckloads of strawberries, herbs and green beans being hauled from fields not far from the beach. The menu will focus on this incredible local bounty, variations on regional Mexican staples and other simply prepared, fresh foods.
While Todos Santos is near the Pacific, it’s not actually on the Pacific. Drive west of town, and almost any road will dead-end at a dune from which you can walk the seemingly endless stretch of golden sand known as La Cachora beach. Its water is so rough that surfers gravitate five miles north of town to La Pastora, a sandy beach with fun right breaks. You’ll need a four-wheel-drive to get there, but it’s worth it, especially since it’s also home to the Green Room restaurant, named for the ephemeral feel and color on the inside of a wave. The restaurant’s mezcal margaritas and smoked tuna pâté served right on the beach, are the perfect way to wind down a busy day.
Serving elevated Mexican seafood with a casual vibe, the Green Room experience offers a taste of the true magic of Baja.
Sit beachfront with your toes in the sand and soak up the sunset while enjoying cold margaritas and fresh seafood prepared to perfection. You’re likely to catch migrating whales, a flock of pelicans, or a single soaring osprey as you take in the beauty of the Pacific. The Green Room is an authentic Mexican dining experience right on the beach – Baja at its best.
And once you're here, one last tip for a Todos Santos overnight stay in style and probably the best surprise you can find at the very end of this journey, Villa Santa Cruz, with daily rates ranging from $235 to $380 in July, is a spectacular eight-room boutique beach resort located right on the Pacific Ocean on 20 acres of secluded beachfront property.
As a guest, you’ll have plenty of places to unwind and recharge, including the Villa’s Grand Saltwater Swimming Pool & Jacuzzi – newly remodeled and heated, the spacious Roof Terrace with gas fire ring, hammocks at the Oceanfront Palapa, or the expanse of quiet beachfront just steps from your door.
With a warm, casual atmosphere, upgraded amenities and gracious hospitality, Villa Santa Cruz is a high-end destination for the modern beach traveler. Inside the main Villa, there are four cozy rooms, complete with old-world Mexico charm, and four brand-new standalone Beach View Bungalows with sweeping views of the mangrove-covered dunes, white sand beach and luxurious swimming pool.
- Final conclusions.
Baja Peninsula is a land of cinematic desert landscapes and turquoise seas, the most sparsely populated region in Mexico. It has desert and high mountains, but also verdant oases, ancient forests and ocean ecosystems of wondrous biodiversity.
Until the mid-20th century, Baja was pretty much a no man’s land, a territory that was the preserve of myth and mavericks. In the 1940s and ’50s, pioneering visitors, among them John Steinbeck, John Wayne and Bing Crosby, pitched up to fish for marlin and swig tequila.
Although with a total area of about 12 times smaller, Baja Peninsula reminds me of Namibia for the overwhelming vastness of its desert territories.
As a matter of fact, National Geographic UK Mag named Baja California Sur as the second-best destination in the world to visit after Namibia
Just like Namibia, Baja Peninsula offers space, silence and the chance to really get away from it all. If you leave the main roads and you venture for the dirt backroads you can drive for hours under huge blue skies without seeing another car, surrounded by landscapes so vast and empty that at times you feel like you’re on the edge of the planet. In an overpopulated world, here you can immerse yourself as deeply in remote wilderness areas as in Namibia.
Although the feeling of vastness of Namibia is unparalleled, Baja Peninsula has the advantage of being surrounded on three sides by one of the cleanest and most life-rich marine areas in the whole world, on the western and southern side from the Pacific Ocean with its rough sea very sought after by surfers from around the world, and on the eastern side from the sheltered Sea of Cortez with its calm and warm waters resembling the Mediterranean Sea which Jacques Cousteau called the World Aquarium.
Here below we can compare some views of sand dunes by the ocean in Namibia
and in Baja Peninsula
but Baja has a much greater variety of spectacular coastal landscapes as we can see here below
and while the African safari camps in full luxury accommodations give you the chance to get so close to amazing wildlife like elephants that are the largest mammals on the planet that live on land,
in Baja you can admire the largest marine mammals like gray whales
and whale sharks, the largest fish in the sea
and you can even pat them
or even kiss them
or swim with them
this might be even more exciting experience than just watching a lion
and while in Namibia you might be able with a long-focus lens to enjoy a cheetah running at full speed
then the question is, why is there such a thriving market in Namibia and other central Africa countries for ultra-luxury safari camps and nothing similar in Baja?
in Baja you will have a killer whale following your speedboat at full throttle just a few meters away from you with the golden cliffs of Isla Espiritu Santu in the backdrop
then the question is, why is there such a thriving market in Namibia and other central Africa countries for ultra-luxury safari camps and nothing similar in Baja?
In my online searches, I didn't find an answer to this question, or maybe there's just a void in the market to be filled with the exception of a few camping establishments in Isla Espiritu Santo as reported earlier in this report that are far from reaching the service levels offered by their likes in Namibia.
The Baja California Peninsula is one of the most unique desert regions on earth but large tourism development projects threaten the extraordinary web of marine and terrestrial ecosystems.
Why such a deployment of financial means in cementing the wonderful stretch of coastline around Los Cabos instead of exploiting, as it happens in Africa, in a more exclusive and sustainable way the wonders that nature has to offer in this apparently arid but instead very generous land?
Why the big money is often so short-sighted and lacking ethics to invest millions in such McMansion monstrosities
in place of providing luxury yet sustainable experiences like in the following pictures?
But the problem is not just about aesthetical choices obviously, also within these mega hotels a few ones show nice design, the problem is the oversize and lack of sustainable practices in the operation of these tourist establishments, and even more deep at the roots, the predatory developer's strategies with their planning in utter contempt for current sustainability needs without taking into account studies of economic, social and environmental impacts produced in their influential areas, characteristic of most of the hotel establishments and resorts.
All this to say that Baja is a land of extremes when it comes down to hospitality industry. You find a still relatively small interesting scene in Vale de Guadalupe and in Todos Santos, then the excesses of Los Cabos and very little to none in the rest of the peninsula where there is no lack of offer but nothing really worth a mention in the large urban areas bordering the US, Tijuana, Tecate and Mexicali, and more on the southside, Loreto, La Paz, Sargento, etc.
Of all the hotels and resorts took into account in this virtual journey, these two are my best choice:
this one, more in tune with my minimalist and contemporary taste,
Before closing and moving on to the next chapter, a few more photos and considerations:
What's romantic about this???
Of all the hotels and resorts took into account in this virtual journey, these two are my best choice:
this one, more in tune with my minimalist and contemporary taste,
and one with a more classic and traditional style with only eight rooms,
What's romantic about this???
or about this???
The following is a map showing just some, not all of the golf courses in the so-called "Los Cabos Tourist Corridor"
The following study reads:
"The construction of over 40 (on-going or proposed) tourist and second home megaprojects with multiple golf courses in an arid zone, such as BCS, seems incompatible with any true notion of sustainability. Bearing in mind that in a golf course each square meter requires 9 liters of water per day and that an 18-hole course can cover an area of 350,000sq. meters, the opportunity cost of its irrigation would be equivalent to providing water to a town of 10,000 people."
Now taking into account that this map shows only 13 of the existing golf courses, doing the maths we have a daily water consumption of 40,950,000 liters, enough to provide water to a city of 130,000 inhabitants.
The next chapter will list and analyze the ideal places found for the potential development of sustainable tourism establishments and all the legal and bureaucratic aspects involved in the process of moving to Mexico, taking up residency, purchase and management of properties, etc.
It will be published in a different blog page with restricted access.
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Books
stefano-frontani/baja-california
https://www.bassacalifornia.com/
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https://www.bassacalifornia.com/
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The following website is a goldmine of intel for the ones who want to travel Baja on the road
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